MAN—the business of men’s grooming—is for barbers, hair stylists, skincare specialists, barber supply store owners and other beauty industry professionals that provide men’s grooming services or retail men’s grooming products.
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32 I M A N I S P R I N G 2 0 1 7 PEOPLES BARBER & SHOP > San Francisco and Oakland, CA Word-of-mouth rules at Peoples Barber and Shop (peoplesbarber .com), a Northern California-based industry leader whose stellar customer service draws guys from all walks of life into its three bustling shops in San Francisco and Oakland (S.F.'s Polk St. location averages 185 guests a day). "It's all about the people: It's for the people, by the people and it's about bringing back customer service and creating livelihoods for our providers," says operating partner and 40-year-barbering veteran James Lizotte, who describes Peoples as balancing classic, old-school barbering with modern techniques. With shops themed in either Prohibition-era décor with 1930s, round-bottom Koken chairs or a mid-century modern aesthetic with 1950s Koken presidential chairs, the atmosphere at Peoples' shops exudes a timeless hospitality, inviting guests to unwind as they sip on complimentary beer, wine, bourbon or just a cup of joe. Prepped with continual advanced training, the chain's diverse team of 75 barbers and stylists can whip up anything from killer pompadours to skin fades to short or long traditional and contemporary haircuts. "You must be able to do everything while continually learning new techniques and staying current, or you'll be left behind," says Lizotte. Peoples' straight-razor shave—"one of the most luxurious around the globe," he boasts—is a shop specialty. Guests can also walk away with a variety of grooming products from Layrite, Uppercut Deluxe, JS Sloan, Hanz de Fuko and Proraso (the last of which David Letterman has scored). The shops' pros are especially keen on Kevin .Murphy Night.Rider, a fi rm-hold paste they say offers tons of guts and grip. "The barbers and stylists are educated on it and can teach their guests how to use it as well," says Lizotte. "It's a big win-win." Peoples' future looks winning too: "We're going to keep growing," says Lizotte. "We're not stopping here." —Molly Church in the shop BARBER OF HELL'S BOTTOM > Washington, D.C. & Richmond, VA The son of two hairdressers, Kelly Gorsuch knows his way around a salon. He also knows how to expand out from one—in the past four years, the 37-year-old has opened four wildly popular barbershops. His exploits began in Shaw, a trendy yet historical, ghostly corner of Washington, D.C., that inspired Gorsuch to name his shop Barber of Hell's Bottom (barberofhellsbottom.com). Today, Hell's Bottom headlines three D.C. locations, and a new 65,000-square-foot outpost in Richmond, Virginia. "My philosophy is simple: focus and excellence," Gorsuch says. "The entire brand is stronger if everyone has the same objective." To underscore this imperative he hired a designated brand manager and it shows, starting with the shop's signature, speakeasy-esque decor that Gorsuch describes as an "Americanized version" of the Japanese aesthetic tradition of wabi-sabi. "I believe in using natural materials and colors but I also like to celebrate America's great furniture-makers," he explains. "I pay maniacal attention to every detail in the environment, and we pride ourselves on our distinct design aesthetic." The result is a rustic look that conjures both nostalgia and modernity. Another distinct difference: All 17 Barber of Hell's Bottom barbers are trained in modern scissor techniques—affording maximum movement in their shapes—as well as traditional barbering skills. "As a company, we take pride in everyone being able to provide straight-razor shaving," Gorsuch says. "Everyone must ascribe to the company concept of elevated barbering, which we defi ne as the barber and the guest working together to achieve the best possible look for the guest—not the barber. We are, after all, in the hospitality business." Brand manager Jill Heizer agrees that Hell's Bottom has gained recognition for combining time-honored traditions in the barbering craft with current scissor and clipper techniques. "Our dedication to craft allows us to provide each of our guests with a perfectly crafted, personal style," she says. It comes down to the trifecta of "service, experience and relationship," she adds. This hybrid of barbering tradition and modern, salon-style customization is a new phenomenon, Heizer notes, one that springs from men's realization that it's okay to invest time and money in themselves. "Having that space to go and relax is something everyone needs," she says. One winning experiential fl ourish: the warmed lotion used in the shop's über-popular straight-razor Beard Shave ($30). Keeping up with a fast-paced industry is nothing new for Gorsuch, who started hair-cutting school at 17 and opened his fi rst salon at 24. He also opened three of Hell's Bottom's four locations in a two-year span, and doesn't appear to be slowing down. "We are taking a hard look at establishing a Hell's Bottom in Los Angeles," Gorsuch says. "We've landed on a great concept, and will be looking to make that move once we've fi nished growing our Richmond location." —Katie O'Reilly The Valencia St. crew hold court in one of Peoples Barber & Shop's two San Francisco locations. Inside the Oakland location.