MAN

Fall 2017

MAN—the business of men’s grooming—is for barbers, hair stylists, skincare specialists, barber supply store owners and other beauty industry professionals that provide men’s grooming services or retail men’s grooming products.

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FA L L 2 0 1 7 I M A N I 33 COURTESTY OF MANUFACTURERS Trend Alert: The Handlebar From Frederich Nietzsche to Buffalo Bill, the handlebar mustache trend had its heyday in the 19th century, sported by European soldiers and the famous characters of the American Wild West. Today, the handlebar is making a huge comeback. "If [a man] has the patience and enough hair to grow one, walking around with a well-groomed handlebar mustache is sure to be a showstopper," says Arriola. Jimmy Fallon rocked the style all summer long, thanks to Brooklyn, New York-based master barber Russell Cordeiro, who splits his time between the upscale Art and Autonomy Salon in Manhattan's SoHo district and the hip Persons of Interest Barbershop in Williamsburg, Brooklyn. According to Cordeiro, "It can take up to six months to grow a handlebar mustache, depending on how far you want to take it." However, with the proper care and nurturing from a professional, those do not have to be 180 days of facial hair doom. For Fallon's 'stache-growing journey, 18.21 Man Made gifted him with a selection of products for his mustache maintenance. (For a selection of helpful products for care and wear, see "Quality Control" at right.) Think your men are ready for a mustache makeover? Mike Taylor, senior barber and founder of Mike Taylor Education Barber College based in Poole, England, offers this quick styling tip to achieve a hip handlebar: "Warm some mustache wax between your fi ngers and apply it evenly to the ends of the mustache. Then, curl the ends into the desired shape. Once styled, do not touch it, as this will make the ends go fl uffy." Choosing the Right Style Although the handlebar is perhaps the most popular, it's not necessarily the right mustache for all clients. Helping them choose the right style can be challenging, as there are many factors to consider, including face shape, facial features and lifestyle. "When helping clients choose the right mustache, I start by showing them a chart that illustrates a variety of styles so they can visualize which shape might work best for them," says Danny Amorim, master barber and Andis Company global educator. "Barbers and stylists can educate their clients on which mustache styles complement their features, just as we would advise a client for a haircut." Before the trimming begins, Trish Krumins, owner of The Men's Room Barber Shop in Milwaukee, has a conversation with clients about their facial hair goals. "Length, shape and style are determined not only by the client's desires, but also by the quality and quantity of whiskers," she explains. After all, some men are lucky to have the type of hair to change their mustache style as often as they change their haircut, while others may need to commit to one style and focus on maintenance if their facial hair growth is more limited. Mustaches also command a big commitment in terms of growing time, upkeep and proper care. "The client's job, activities and even personality infl uence the decision," says Krumin, especially if they'll need to make weekly stops at the barbershop. "Ensure that your client has time for the upkeep," Taylor advises. You may even want to ask your clients questions to make sure they have QUALITY CONTROL Mustaches demand many different products for styling. From trimmers and beard shampoos to beard oils and pomades, your mustache clients provide a strong retail opportunity. Imperial Barber Classic Pomade The water-based Classic Pomade is also water reactivatable, which allows for easy restyling depending upon the amount of water in the hair/mustache. imperialbarberproducts.com Lucky Tiger Moustache Wax Formulated with pure lanolin, cocoa butter and beeswax, this super- hydrating wax conditions, grooms and controls facial hair. getluckytiger.com Gibs Man Wash BHB Fortifi ed with copaiba balsam and tea tree oils, this beard, hair and body wash cleanses and conditions hair without stripping away moisture. gibsgrooming.com Wahl Beret Trimmer The Wahl Beret Trimmer provides high-precision accuracy for a clean line thanks to the snap-on blades. The lithium ion-powered rotary motor can be used with or without a cord. wahlpro.com Andis Slimline Pro Li T-Blade Trimmer "It's lightweight, cordless and the perfect tool for use in-between facial hair maintenance," says Danny Amorim. andis.com

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