MAN the magazine reports on the business of men's grooming for the professional barber or men's hairstylist, including popular hairstyles, products and men's grooming services.
Issue link: https://manthemag.epubxp.com/i/703974
P R E M I E R E 2 0 1 6 I M A N I 43 VAUGHN ACORD, founder How did you become immersed in the men's grooming industry? Vaughn: I was schooled and licensed in hair and had a little salon in Oberlin, Ohio, near where I grew up. I loved what I was doing, but I ended up with an opportunity to get into modeling. So, I spent seven years in Europe doing that, which ultimately brought me to New York. I'd gotten married and wanted to settle down and not be on the road so much, so I decided to go back into what I'd always liked doing: hair. Did your modeling experience affect your work as a stylist? Yes. Because of my background, I was called to do a lot of runway and magazine shoot work. I noticed that the covers and spreads of publications like GQ, Details and Rolling Stone were getting a lot more interesting, so I began to concentrate on what really looked good on a guy. I always made a point to look at him in a more complete way, and not just focus on his hair while ignoring his face and dress style and lifestyle. A few major players took note and kind of vaulted me into the world of working with celebrities and models and 'royalty,' so to speak. How and when did V76 come into the picture? In my head, about 16 years ago, when I found myself submerged in the culture of men's grooming. I kept seeing companies jump into this new opportunity without necessarily having the background or credibility to support it—they were mostly just adding stuff to existing women's lines. So in 2013, I created the product I'd been dreaming about, our V-Rated Wax. It was more natural than what I'd been using, with a great protein base. And today your collection has 20 SKUs, is that correct? Yes, we focus on four categories: Well Groomed, a line of hair products; Boldly Barbered, for facial hair; Face Forward skin and body care; and Well Gifted, a line of colognes and kits for travelers and gifts. Packaging for every line is legible, simplistic and refl ective of who I am: It combines rich, matte colors along with some shine, to indicate the duality of work and play. The message is that guys can look good and groomed both downtown and uptown. What's next for you? This is an ever-evolving process— we're devoted to continually learning and asking questions. I'd say our overarching focus is to educate men on how to be comfortable in their skin no matter what they're working with and no matter their age. It's about building that trust with them. Do you abide by an overall business philosophy? Yes, and that is to enjoy what you do, while creating a culture of likemindedness around you. Our staff has grown to almost 75, and I could never do what I do without this team of fantastic people who work along with me. Also, you must remember to enjoy the journey. Everyone could always be more successful, but try to have fun in the moment. What led you to the men's grooming business? Alfonso: My mom opened several salons and beauty supply stores in Southern California in the early '80s, when I was little. I'd help her manage them after school. Later, I went to cosmetology school, and then college. I thought I was done with the service side of the beauty industry, but Mama needed me to take over a salon she'd opened in a regional mall—it had been a Fantastic Sam's franchise. I converted the franchise into a private ownership and loved it. It's a beautiful feeling to run a successful service business, to build a team where everyone works toward the same goals and level of quality. And in that quest, I saw a real need for a men's product line. There was such disconnect between salons and barbershops—it seemed the male customer had to be either a 6'4" model with washboard abs or an everyday guy who changes your oil or works at the local market. I wanted there to be a product line made for every guy. What was your very fi rst product? In 1994, we launched Johnny B. Original Pomade. Our packaging showed a slick, zoot-suited fi gure with a kind of '50s look. Over time, though, I saw that the '50s trend wasn't going to play out for long. In the late '90s, we cropped Johnny B. on our packaging so you could only see his head. How many SKUs do you carry today? We have almost 30 haircare products, but what really distinguishes us is that we have tools, too. We strive to make the most effective and effi cient capes, tools, combs and razors, and we have many men's educators working for us. We also run the Johnny B. Barber Academy here in L.A. twice a year. Where do you think the men's grooming industry is headed? We think hair and beard straightening and relaxing will be huge. Many popular men's styles work best for straight hair, and it's hard for men with natural wave patterns to pull them off. [At print time, Johnny B. was preparing for a late summer launch of a two-step straightening process called Johnny Director, to be manufactured in Italy.] What is your overarching business philosophy? Pay attention to market gaps in your niche, and always invest in education. V76 by Vaughn (v76.com), New York City ALFONSO ANORGA, founder and president Johnny B. Hair Care (johnnybhaircare.com), Los Angeles WHERE DID 'V76' COME FROM? The fi rst haircut I ever did was in 1976. And the V stands for "Vampire…"! The name Johnny was popular after WWII, and it evoked a generation past.